Thursday 8 December 2011

Blue Cheese...or, Fromage Bleu, or...What Is That Stink?!?!





One of my absolute favourite things in the whole world is blue cheese. How something so potentially revolting and smelly could be a delicacy, one could only wonder. In the words of the legendary Jerry "The King" Lawler..."...it smells like someone's eating Gorgonzola in the septic tank of a slaughterhouse in here!" Definitely an acquired taste, and for advanced lovers of cheeses only, I reckon.  

Pictured above is the aforementioned Gorgonzola, one of the undisputed Kings of Blue Cheese (being one of the most well known). Gorgonzola is from Italy. The other famous Blues are Maytag (domestic, USA), Stilton (Britain), Roquefort (Caves of Roquefort, France) and Danish Blue (Denmark). These cheeses are very unlike one another...each has it's own signature appeal. Maytag and Danish Blue have strong citrus notes, are more firm and crumbly, and are excellent for serving as a garnish on a salad, or in a vinaigrette. Creamier Blues, like Stilton and Gorgonzola, are excellent melting cheeses, or for eating straight up. These cheeses are very pungent, but milder and more refined in flavour than the domestic varieties. This is reflected in the price per kilogram, as fine imported Gorgonzola runs more than $22/kg.





Pictured above is, quite probably, my favourite blue cheese. It is also the most revolting cheese I have ever seen (and smelled). If you look closely, you will see how slimy it appears. There ain't nothing in this world like the controlled spoilage of milk, let me tell you. This cheese is called St. Agur, from France. I bought the above sample (4 oz.) at the Hamilton Farmer's Market, for about $36/kg, or a buck an ounce, give or take. It is a wonderfully smooth and nutty tasting Blue, and it goes really well with slices of apple and spread on fresh baguette (also procured from said Farmer's Market). As off-putting as it's appearance and aroma may be to the uninitiated, it is one of the smoothest and mildest Blues I've experienced. If you are fortunate enough to find some in an artisan cheese shop, do your self a favour and pick up a few ounces. If you like blue cheese, this is one for the ages.

 
Another great Blue Cheese is the above illustrated hybrid, the German Cambozola. It features the appearance of a nice wedge of camembert cheese, with it's soft, bloomy and edible rind, and pale, creamy and lightly veined interior. It is classified (or I classify it, rather) as a hybrid cheese because it's origin seems to be made from two separate cheeses. First, as the name 'Cambozola' suggests, the body is made up of a round of double cream Camembert cheese. It is then pricked with needles across the top, needles which have been 'infected' with the penicillium glaucum (gorgonzola) bacteria. It is then left to age in cool cellars for about 4 months or so. This is an impressive cheese to bust out at a wine and cheese party.



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