Saturday 23 January 2016

R1: Nellie James Too





Review 1: Nellie James Too

Allow me to take a quick moment to repurpose this blog a little. Since the scope of my new job doesn't really afford me the luxury of resculpting the culinary landscape, I've decided to review local restaurants, instead. Consider it a hobby as I enjoy semi-retirement.

First up is a little place on James Street South called Nellie James Too. It is located at the corner of Duke and James, and is in the spot that Boo's Bistro and Wine Bar used to be situated. It is owned and operated by Ken LeFebour and his partner, Jackie, who are also owners of the reputable and popular Chef & Wife establishment in the heart of downtown Dundas, ON. It has since been renamed Nellie James Gourmet Food To Go. The resto on James, ostensibly, as one would garner by the "too" appendage of the nomenclature, is a sit-down extension of the Dundas store.

On first approach to the restaurant, the initial vibe is classy, welcoming and modern. It sports a glasshouse store front and a small staircase leading down into the dining room, making it non-wheelchair accessible. Service staff were friendly and quick to greet, and the coziness of the dining room was quite welcoming. The walls are adorned with kitschy artwork, and the banquettes are clad in a black-and-white pseudo animal print, which adds to the overall modern, funky and textural feel of the establishment.


The menus are blackboard based, which for me is two-fold: I appreciate the blackboard menu movement, as it is very trendy, but I have largely seen blackboards written by people who have little business holding a piece of chalk or a dry erase marker. This isn't just a Nellie James Too problem, it is a blackboard menu problem all over, by nearly everyone who attempts one. Perhaps I am being overly critical, but blackboard menus are meant to be illustrative, neat and well laid out...eye catching...to draw the diner to buy-in. I believe blackboards should be filled out by those with a flair for handwriting and lettering, but I digress. A small niggle, really. Moving on!

Daily Menu Slate

 



The menus were presented on slates with handles, with content that is changed daily, based on Chef Ken's whimsy. I found this to be a very creative and interesting way to present his daily card. The variety on this day certainly did not disappoint. Price points were very reasonable for gourmet cuisine, and Chef Ken has hit all the right bases here.




 




We were sold a bottle of California's Menage-a-Trois by the knowledgeable and personable bartender / maitre d'. It was a very pleasant, easy drinking and fruity bottle of wine, that was a pleasant aperitif, especially when paired with the complimentary house made potato bread, paired with a lemon herb aioli. The bread was moist, rustic and delicious, complete with chunks of tender potato baked in, and the aioli was replete with citrus, and very savoury.



Blackened Shrimp

 
The Cajun shrimp were presented simply, over a flavourful smoked cheddar potato pancake, crisp sauteed bok choy and a coconut lime broth. It came with three jumbo shrimp, and, while not easy to share with another, were well seasoned and perfectly cooked. The grilled lime was a nice touch, and the denatured juice livened the coconut broth up considerably. The bok choy was a little undercooked, though...not sure if this was the intent of this preparation, but it was still good, offering crunch, and varied texture. Perhaps maybe an avant-garde slaw?
Duck Burger
The mains arrived next. Despite being somewhat busy (they had about 16 covers on the go in a 25 seater), the timing was very good. We were never left to wait and wonder, and the staff was quite engaging and always struck up casual conversation in the interim. The first entree was their lauded Duck Burger, which I had heard about during a city-wide Hamilton burger promotion in November (Novemburger). They were happy to mention that it had been added to their menu based on popular consensus. It was cooked medium-well, nicely seasoned, over a slice of smoked cheddar toast, with parsnip chips and a house-pickled red beet. The portion was quite generous, and the duck was flavourful and delicious. I would have preferred medium done personally, but I completely understand the impetus on restos to serve medium well and up. The gastrique on the side was an interesting foil to the duck's richness.

Grilled Lamb Shoulder Chop
The other main was a grilled lamb shoulder with rosemary pan jus, and the very same beet and parsnip chip garnish adorning the duck burger. The server advised, before ordering, that the lamb was best grilled rare to medium rare. I found that unusual, as lamb shoulder can be a bit sinewy and a generally chewier secondary cut. Rare to medium doneness is usually reserved for the prime cuts of an animal. However, it was ordered as recommended, and while the flavour of the lamb was great, it was indeed a cut of meat that needed to be cooked up a few degrees, to medium or medium well, to be enjoyed more. The rosemary pan jus was very flavourful. The roasted garlic mashed potatoes that were ordered as an accompaniment were very garlicky and creamy.


 
Daily Dessert Slate
Pink Peppercorn Chocolate Tart



















After the mains were cleared, dessert was the next on the agenda. The dessert slate I was presented with offered several house made creations. This, like their regular menu, changes often. I opted for the chocolate and pink peppercorn tart, and I was not disappointed. The chocolate ganache was spot on, and the salted caramel sauce was delicious...a match made in heaven. It was topped with a quenelle of homemade whipped cream chantilly, and an overly large piece of sugarwork garnish. This plate as a whole worked well, and was a memorable finisher to a great meal.

THE VERDICT:
 
Great homemade gourmet meals in a modern setting. Friendly and accommodating staff. Very reasonable price points. Menu changes daily.

Nellie James Too is a solid part of the modern renaissance the Hamilton culinary scene is currently experiencing. Because of places like this, Hamilton is quickly becoming a hotbed of epicurean destinations!


Kudos to Ken, his wife and their staff for a great meal. Will definitely be back! 

Cheers, Chef D